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Fragrant Hills Park (Xiangshan
Park)
Xiangshan
Park, also known as the Forest Park, is located on the eastern
sides of the Western Hills, approximately 10 kilometers to
the west of Beijing.
Due to its high elevation and dense cover
of trees, spring arrives late in the area and summer days
are always pleasantly cool. The best time to visit the park
is late fall, when the smoke tree leaves turn red. The trees
make the grandest display of all. There are also groves of
apricots, pears, peaches and lilacs adding their fragrance,
and the more solemn evergreens, whose contribution to the
local beauty is unrestricted by seasonal changes.
A poem of Marshal Chen Yi reads:
The red leaves of the Western Hills
Because even redder as the frost thickens.
And an earlier poem by the Tang Dynasty
poet Du Mu treats the same subject:
Stopping in my sedan chair in the evening,
I sit admiring the maple grove;
The frost-covered leaves are redder than
the flowers of spring.
In
1186 of the Jin Dynasty, the Xiangshan Temple was built here
and for a period served as the emperor's traveling lodge.
In 1745, Emperor Qianlong had a number of large halls; pagodas,
memorial archways and leisure pavilions built and changed
the name of the area to the Garden of Peacefulness (Jingyiyuan).
This complex served the famous Qing ruler as one of his summer
palaces and became one of the three favorite hills of Qianlong,
beside Jade Spring Mountain (Yuquanshan) and Longevity Hill
(Wanshoushan) in the Summer Palace.
Qianlong' s elaboration of the park consisted
of 28 separate vistas, each with a poetic name: Jade China
Cliff, Toad Peak, Jade Milk Spring, Bell Separated from the
Clouds, etc. Unfortunately, almost every trace of this carefully
orchestrated symphony of landscape architecture, including
the blueprints, was burned or destroyed by the Anglo-French
forces and the eight-Power Allied Forces in the 19th and early
20th centuries. The more important extant sites are as follows:
Jianxin Study: Built first in the Jiajing
period of the Ming Dynasty, this complex of buildings stands
to the west of Eyeglasses Lake. The study contains a semi-circular
pond and an adjacent pavilion, surrounded on three sides by
covered galleries. Beyond the pavilion are rockery hill and
a grove of trees concealing a gazebo.
Zhaomiao (Luminous) Temple: Constructed
in 1780 in the Qianlong period, this Lamaist temple is said
to have been built especially for the Panchen Lama. In its
center, a Red Terrace rises 10 meters above the ground. On
its eastern side is a memorial the archway of white marble
and glazed tile, while on the slope to the west is a seven-story
glazed pagoda, the eaves of which are hung with tiny bells,
which tinkle with even the slightest breeze.
The
Tree-Covered Imperial Audience Tablet: Located to the southwest
of the Chaoyang Caves, this group of steep cliffs with numerous
trees resembles a giant hu - the rectangular tablet officials
held before themselves in the presence of the emperor.
Guijianchou (Worried Ghost) Peak: The main
peak of Xiangshan Park, Worried Ghost Peak had an elevation
of 557 meters. Clouds and mist often engulf its precipitously
angled cliffs, which give the two large stone excrescences
of the peak a resemblance to incense burners. It is from this
that the name Xiangshan or Incense Mountains (and not Fragrant
Hills, as the area had been mistakenly called for generations)
is derived.
From the peak, the winding Yongding
River like a white silk belt fluttering among the western
valleys, the Marco Polo Bridge on the river, Shijing Mountain,
the Summer Palace and Jade Spring Mountain can all be seen
from here, and on a clear day one can even make out the skyline
of Beijing.
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